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Fitness
Alpine climbing

Cima Paganella

Alpine climbing · Altopiano della Paganella
Responsible for this content
APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Cliff Cima Paganella
    / Cliff Cima Paganella
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • Cliff Cima Paganella
    / Cliff Cima Paganella
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • Cliff Cima Paganella and view in direction Trento
    / Cliff Cima Paganella and view in direction Trento
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • View in direction Trento and Valsugana
    / View in direction Trento and Valsugana
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • View to the north
    / View to the north
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • Cliff Cima Paganella
    / Cliff Cima Paganella
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / The ways of the cliff Cima Paganella
    Photo: APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • /
    Photo: APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
1500 1650 1800 1950 2100 m km

Climbing over the valle dell'Adige.

moderate
0.2 km
0:23 h
271 m
0 m

Cima Paganella cliff is by far the most scenic and spectacular cliff you can find on the Paganella Plateau and surroundings.

Difficulty
6a+ moderate
Technique
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Altitude
1975 m
1704 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Exposition
NESW

Safety information

Although the cliffs of Paganella area are periodically inspected, do not forget that they are still natural walls with free access and therefore subject to agents of various nature - both atmospheric and human - that may damage the rock and the gear present on the wall. For a climbing experience as safe as possible, it is necessary not to abide by the following safety norms:

  • always wear a helmet whether while climbing or during a stop at the foot of the cliff
  • before starting to climb, double-check your safety equipment reciprocally; climbing harness, quickdraws, knot and brake stand
  • do not climbing alone
  • stop at the foot of the cliff only for as long as necessary to climb and always pay attention to other climbers on the wall
  • always check the gear present on the wall
  • make use of adequate securing gear after having learnt the correct use

Anyone who climbs, is aware of the risk inherent in the practice of this activity and accepts it.

Whether you have never practised this activity or even if you simply would like the supervision of expert and comptent specialists, do not hesitat to contact the local Alpin Guide.

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Equipment

Helmet, harness, biner.

Tips, hints and links

Tourist Board Dolomiti Paganella

Start

Cima Paganella (1704 m)
Coordinates:
Geographic
46.139404, 11.044586
UTM
32T 657917 5111568

Destination

Cima Paganella

Turn-by-turn directions

Cima Paganella cliff is by far the most scenic and spectacular cliff on the Paganella Plateau. From the wall, located at an height of 2100m., you can enjoy a unique view in an environmental context which makes climbers feel emotions that only the most renowned mountain routes can offer. The wall facing East offer a favoured view of the underlying Adige Valley and the Lakes of Lamar, while on the horizon the gaze reaches the Eastern Dolomites and the Lagorai Group. This new cliff is formed by a rough limestone, sturdy and compact, largely wrought and full of holes, grips and handholds where climbing comes with satisfaction. The nailing at short distance and a clear predominance of low/medium difficulty pitches make of this wall an ideal cliff even for the less experienced climbers.

Once you have reached Cima Paganella, it is possible to get to the cliff by walking the first stretch of the path Sentiero delle Aquile (equipped path) which takes you to the cliff in about 15 minutes. Otherwise you can take the path 602 till you reach the Canalone Battisti in about 10 minutes (huge wood protection located on the top of the canal) and then cover in the opposite direction the path Sentiero delle Aquile, which leads you to the bottom of the cliff in a few minutes.

 

18 ways from 4c to 7b

1. Peace from Paganella: 5c; 10m.

2. Via del muschio: 4c; 11m.

3. Raponzolo: 5a; 12m.

4. Via Lunel: 6a; 14m.

5. Muy Linda: 6a; 14m.

6. Kersch: 6b+; 14m.

7. Ginepraio: 6c+; 12m.

8. Rododendro: 7b; 13m.

9. La Panoramica: 6a; 22m.

10. Via dei Licheni: 6a+; 12m.

11. Calcaria: 5c+; 12m.

12. Via Maestri: 6a; 18m.

13. Edelweiss: 6c+; 18m.

14. LA Negritella: 4c; 8m.

15. Mirtillo: 5a; 8m.

16. Astro Alpino: 5a; 8m.

17. Buchetto Degno: 6a+; 8m.

18. Orso Bruno: 5a; 8m.

Public transport

Trentino Trasporti - line 611: from Trento to Mezzolombardo by train (Ferrovia Trento - Malé), from Mezzolombardo to Fai della Paganella by bus. You can go to the top of PAganella by chairlift from Fai della Paganella (end June-end August) or by gondola+chairlift from Andalo (mid June-end September).

 

 

Getting there

From the motorway exit Trento nord we drive direction val di Non and Altopiano della Paganella; just afer the long tunnel by Mezzolombardo, we turn right (SP 64), to Fai della Paganella and Andalo.

Parking

Fai della Paganella: departure of the chairlift

Andalo: departure of the lifts or near the swimming pool/football pitch

 

Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

A guide for clmbing: free brochure available at the offices of the Tourist Board Dolomiti Paganella (Andalo, Molveno, Fai della Paganella)

Book recommendations for this region:

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Recommended maps for this region:

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Similar tours nearby

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Difficulty
6a+ moderate
Distance
0.2 km
Duration
0:23 h
Ascent
271 m
Descent
0 m
Scenic With refreshment stops Botanical highlights Mountain railway ascent/descent

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