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Alpine climbing recommended route

La Falesia Dimenticata

Alpine climbing · San Lorenzo Dorsino
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APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • /
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Falesia Dimenticata
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Falesia Dimenticata
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Falesia Dimenticata
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Falesia Dimenticata
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / San Lorenzo in Banale
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / San Lorenzo in Banale - Senaso
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
m 590 580 570 100 80 60 40 20 m
The "Falesia Dimenticata" has been finally rediscovered.
moderate
Distance 0.1 km
0:09 h
25 m
0 m
The "Falesia Dimenticata" has been finally rediscovered and you can climb there 12 months per year.

Author’s recommendation

Profile picture of Lorenzo Ventura
Author
Lorenzo Ventura
Update: August 09, 2021
Difficulty
5a+ moderate
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
597 m
Lowest point
572 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec

Safety information

Although the cliffs of Paganella area are periodically inspected, do not forget that they are still natural walls with free access and therefore subject to agents of various nature - both atmospheric and human - that may damage the rock and the gear present on the wall. For a climbing experience as safe as possible, it is necessary not to abide by the following safety norms:

 

  • always wear a helmet whether while climbing or during a stop at the foot of the cliff
  • before starting to climb, double-check your safety equipment reciprocally; climbing harness, quickdraws, knot and brake stand
  • do not climbing alone
  • stop at the foot of the cliff only for as long as necessary to climb and always pay attention to other climbers on the wall
  • always check the gear present on the wall
  • make use of adequate securing gear after having learnt the correct use

Anyone who climbs, is aware of the risk inherent in the practice of this activity and accepts it.

Whether you have never practised this activity or even if you simply would like the supervision of expert and comptent specialists, do not hesitate to contact the local Alpin Guide.

 

 

Tips and hints

Tourist Board Dolomiti Paganella

Start

San Lorenzo in Banale - località Promeghin (572 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

San Lorenzo in Banale - località Promeghin

Turn-by-turn directions

This crag, also known as “Torcel”, from the locality on which it stands, was discovered and bolted towards the end of the 80s. The particular conformation of this rock, a conglomerate of holes,and the beautiful grassland below made it immediately very popular in the period in which sport climbing in Trentino became popular. The crag was closed in the early 90s by the owner of the land, and only in 2017 was opened again to the public, hence the name “Forgotten Cliff”. The Dolomiti Open association bought the land in that year (thanks to a crowdfunding) and is still re-bolting the entire crag, retracing the historical itineraries and adding new routes, all bolted according to the latest safety standards. The close bolting, the beautiful grassland with a spring at the base and the new easy itineraries make this place an ideal cliff for families and beginners, nevertheless the crag offers routes suitable for all levels of climbers up to level 8a.

 

 

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Trentino Trasporti, through Mezzolombardo/Andalo or through Ponte Arche/San Lorenzo in Banale.

Getting there

Once you are near the church of San Lorenzo in Banale, which overlooks the state road, follow sign posts for the “campo sportivo/piscina” (sport fields/swimming pool) passing by the bank “Cassa Rurale” (coming from Molveno turn left). Follow this road for 900m till you reach a roundabout to then park in the opening on the right. From here continue on foot (1 min) climbing up the little road which leads to the sports area and the playground. Once on the meadow walk along the fence to the right till you find some wooden steps which, downhill, lead to the base of the rock face.

Parking

San Lorenzo in Banale - Promeghin.

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Brochure about the crags of the region, for free in the offices of Tourist Board Dolomiti Paganella and of Tourist Board Terme di Comano.

Book recommendations for this region:

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Recommended maps for this region:

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Equipment

Helmet, harness, biner.

Related Events

Tradition & Culture · San Lorenzo Dorsino
Sagra della Ciuiga
San Lorenzo in Banale
10/30 – 11/1
Event Organiser: APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella | Source: APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella

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Photos from others


Difficulty
5a+ moderate
Distance
0.1 km
Duration
0:09 h
Ascent
25 m
Descent
0 m
Scenic Refreshment stops available Family-friendly Wall

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