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Alpine climbing recommended route

Lago Nembia

Alpine climbing · San Lorenzo Dorsino
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APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Schema della falesia
    / Schema della falesia
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Falesia Lago Nembia
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. Frizzera
  • / Falesia Lago Nembia
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. Frizzera
  • / Falesia Lago Nembia
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. Frizzera
  • / Falesia Lago Nembia
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. Frizzera
  • / Falesia Lago Nembia
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. Frizzera
  • / Falesia Lago Nembia
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. Frizzera
m 830 820 810 800 790 780 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 m
The crag rises a few metres from the little lake of Nembia, WWF oasi.
difficult
Distance 0.1 km
0:07 h
39 m
0 m
The crag rises a few metres from the little lake ofNembia. The easy access and the vicinity to the lakebelow make it ideal for anyone wanting to spend aday outdoors, and wishing to give climbing a go ina quiet and relaxing area.

Author’s recommendation

Lake Nembia.

San Lorenzo in Banale, one of Italian most beautiful villages.

Profile picture of Lorenzo Ventura
Author
Lorenzo Ventura
Update: August 04, 2021
Difficulty
7b difficult
Stamina
Risk potential
Highest point
830 m
Lowest point
791 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW

Safety information

Although the cliffs of Paganella area are periodically inspected, do not forget that they are still natural walls with free access and therefore subject to agents of various nature - both atmospheric and human - that may damage the rock and the gear present on the wall. For a climbing experience as safe as possible, it is necessary not to abide by the following safety norms:

  • always wear a helmet whether while climbing or during a stop at the foot of the cliff
  • before starting to climb, double-check your safety equipment reciprocally; climbing harness, quickdraws, knot and brake stand
  • do not climbing alone
  • stop at the foot of the cliff only for as long as necessary to climb and always pay attention to other climbers on the wall
  • always check the gear present on the wall
  • make use of adequate securing gear after having learnt the correct use

Anyone who climbs, is aware of the risk inherent in the practice of this activity and accepts it.

Whether you have never practised this activity or even if you simply would like the supervision of expert and comptent specialists, do not hesitat to contact the local Alpin Guide.

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Tips and hints

Tourist Board Dolomiti Paganella

Start

Lago Nembia (790 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Lago Nembia

Turn-by-turn directions

The crag rises a few metres from the little lake of Nembia. The easy access and the vicinity to the lake below make it ideal for anyone wanting to spend a day outdoors, and wishing to give climbing a go in a quiet and relaxing area. The area, which is equipped with a playground and picnic area is ideal for both climbers and non climbers wanting to enjoy a bit of sunshine in a lovely area surrounded by greenery around the lake. These characteristics and a discrete amount of boulders in the surrounding area make the crag “Lago Nembia” an ideal place even for families. The routes on this wall, run upfeatured rock and are quite difficult and are ideal for climbers of “medium/high level’.  On the rightof the crag there are multi pitch routes on compactlime stone with few holds. These routes are very difficult and technical, even though they are not continuous they are recommended to climbers with a good level who can enjoy a beautiful view over all the surrounding area from this rock face.

 

15 ways from 6a to 8a

1. Ilusioni: 7b. 20m.

2. Misticanza: 7b, 28m.

3. Panza: 7b, 28m.

4. Il fisioterapista: 7c, 18m.

5. Colasanti: 7b, 18m.

6. La manovra: 7b, 18m.

7. L'adattatore: 7a, 20m.

8. Angela: 6b+, 20m.

9. Megaloman: 6b+, 20m.

10. Mia moglie è una golf: 6b+, 15m.

11. Renè: 6b+, 15m.

12. Ritual de lo Habitual: 6a, 6a, 8a, 7c, 8a; 110m.

13. Variante 12 L1: 6a, 25m.

14. Panoramix: 7c, 25m.

15. Il solitario: 7b, 30m.

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Trentino Trasporti, through Mezzolombardo/Andalo or through Ponte Arche/San Lorenzo in Banale.

Getting there

The crag is situated roughly half way between Molveno and S.Lorenzo Dorsino. From Molveno follow signposts for S.Lorenzo in Banale (SS421) for roughly 9 km along Lake Molveno. Once past the lake turn right near “Garnì Lake Nembia”which is visible on the right of the state road. Follow the road which passes near the lake of Nembia for roughly 200 m, till you reach a widecar park on the left on the edge of the lake. From here continue on foot (5 mins) towards the rockface which overlooks the water (facing the wall,the path is on the right side of the lake). Take the path which leads to the crag just after the car park, it is visible on the right of the protection nets. The path is marked with classic stonecairns.

Parking

Lake Nembia

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Dolomiti Paganella Climb - available at the tourist offices (Andalo, Molveno and Fai della Paganella)

 

Book recommendations for this region:

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Recommended maps for this region:

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Equipment

Helmet, harness, biner.

Basic Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Hiking socks  
  • Rucksack (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking poles
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Rock climbing shoes
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Chalkbag plus Chalk
  • Belay/rappelling device
  • Quickdraws
  • Prusik loop
  • Cord
  • Slings
  • HMS screw-gate carabiner
  • Snap-gate carabiner
  • Personal anchor system
  • Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
  • Safelock carabiner
  • Small climbing rucksack
  • Finger tape
  • Climbing knife
  • Topo
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of friends/cams
  • Double set of friends /cams
  • Small friends/cams
  • Medium friends/cams
  • Large friends/cams
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Locking device
  • Big wall aider
  • Trad gear if required
  • Haul bag as required
  • Boulder brush
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

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Photos from others


Difficulty
7b difficult
Distance
0.1 km
Duration
0:07 h
Ascent
39 m
Refreshment stops available

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