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Alpine climbing recommended route

Lago Nembia

Alpine climbing · San Lorenzo Dorsino
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  • Schema della falesia
    Schema della falesia
    Photo: APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
The crag rises a few metres from the little lake of Nembia, WWF oasi.
difficult
Distance 0.1 km
0:07 h
39 m
0 m
830 m
791 m
The crag rises a few metres from the little lake ofNembia. The easy access and the vicinity to the lakebelow make it ideal for anyone wanting to spend aday outdoors, and wishing to give climbing a go ina quiet and relaxing area.

Author’s recommendation

Lake Nembia.

San Lorenzo in Banale, one of Italian most beautiful villages.

Profile picture of Lorenzo Ventura
Author
Lorenzo Ventura
Update: August 04, 2021
Difficulty
7b difficult
Stamina
Risk potential
Highest point
830 m
Lowest point
791 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW

Track types

Show elevation profile

Safety information

Although the cliffs of Paganella area are periodically inspected, do not forget that they are still natural walls with free access and therefore subject to agents of various nature - both atmospheric and human - that may damage the rock and the gear present on the wall. For a climbing experience as safe as possible, it is necessary not to abide by the following safety norms:

  • always wear a helmet whether while climbing or during a stop at the foot of the cliff
  • before starting to climb, double-check your safety equipment reciprocally; climbing harness, quickdraws, knot and brake stand
  • do not climbing alone
  • stop at the foot of the cliff only for as long as necessary to climb and always pay attention to other climbers on the wall
  • always check the gear present on the wall
  • make use of adequate securing gear after having learnt the correct use

Anyone who climbs, is aware of the risk inherent in the practice of this activity and accepts it.

Whether you have never practised this activity or even if you simply would like the supervision of expert and comptent specialists, do not hesitat to contact the local Alpin Guide.

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Tips and hints

Tourist Board Dolomiti Paganella

Start

Lago Nembia (790 m)
Coordinates:
DD
46.099982, 10.934512
DMS
46°05'59.9"N 10°56'04.2"E
UTM
32T 649522 5106975
w3w 
///smashes.darkish.brewery

Destination

Lago Nembia

Turn-by-turn directions

The crag rises a few metres from the little lake of Nembia. The easy access and the vicinity to the lake below make it ideal for anyone wanting to spend a day outdoors, and wishing to give climbing a go in a quiet and relaxing area. The area, which is equipped with a playground and picnic area is ideal for both climbers and non climbers wanting to enjoy a bit of sunshine in a lovely area surrounded by greenery around the lake. These characteristics and a discrete amount of boulders in the surrounding area make the crag “Lago Nembia” an ideal place even for families. The routes on this wall, run upfeatured rock and are quite difficult and are ideal for climbers of “medium/high level’.  On the rightof the crag there are multi pitch routes on compactlime stone with few holds. These routes are very difficult and technical, even though they are not continuous they are recommended to climbers with a good level who can enjoy a beautiful view over all the surrounding area from this rock face.

 

15 ways from 6a to 8a

1. Ilusioni: 7b. 20m.

2. Misticanza: 7b, 28m.

3. Panza: 7b, 28m.

4. Il fisioterapista: 7c, 18m.

5. Colasanti: 7b, 18m.

6. La manovra: 7b, 18m.

7. L'adattatore: 7a, 20m.

8. Angela: 6b+, 20m.

9. Megaloman: 6b+, 20m.

10. Mia moglie è una golf: 6b+, 15m.

11. Renè: 6b+, 15m.

12. Ritual de lo Habitual: 6a, 6a, 8a, 7c, 8a; 110m.

13. Variante 12 L1: 6a, 25m.

14. Panoramix: 7c, 25m.

15. Il solitario: 7b, 30m.

Public transport

Trentino Trasporti, through Mezzolombardo/Andalo or through Ponte Arche/San Lorenzo in Banale.

By road

The crag is situated roughly half way between Molveno and S.Lorenzo Dorsino. From Molveno follow signposts for S.Lorenzo in Banale (SS421) for roughly 9 km along Lake Molveno. Once past the lake turn right near “Garnì Lake Nembia”which is visible on the right of the state road. Follow the road which passes near the lake of Nembia for roughly 200 m, till you reach a widecar park on the left on the edge of the lake. From here continue on foot (5 mins) towards the rockface which overlooks the water (facing the wall,the path is on the right side of the lake). Take the path which leads to the crag just after the car park, it is visible on the right of the protection nets. The path is marked with classic stonecairns.

Parking

Lake Nembia

Coordinates

DD
46.099982, 10.934512
DMS
46°05'59.9"N 10°56'04.2"E
UTM
32T 649522 5106975
w3w 
///smashes.darkish.brewery
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Dolomiti Paganella Climb - available at the tourist offices (Andalo, Molveno and Fai della Paganella)

 

Book recommendations for this region:

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Recommended maps for this region:

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Equipment

Helmet, harness, biner.

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Difficulty
7b difficult
Distance
0.1 km
Duration
0:07 h
Ascent
39 m
Highest point
830 m
Lowest point
791 m
Refreshment stops available

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