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Lo Svago Sano

· 1 review · Alpine climbing · Altopiano della Paganella
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  • Lo Svago Sano
    / Lo Svago Sano
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Scheme of the wall
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Lo Svago Sano
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
m 1000 950 900 100 80 60 40 20 m
The most technical cliff of the Paganella area.
difficult
Distance 0.1 km
0:13 h
139 m
0 m
The most technical, sunny and demanding cliff of the Paganella area and of the surroundings.
Profile picture of Lorenzo Ventura
Author
Lorenzo Ventura
Update: August 10, 2021
Difficulty
7c difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
1,046 m
Lowest point
907 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW

Safety information

Although the cliffs of Paganella area are periodically inspected, do not forget that they are still natural walls with free access and therefore subject to agents of various nature - both atmospheric and human - that may damage the rock and the gear present on the wall. For a climbing experience as safe as possible, it is necessary not to abide by the following safety norms:

  •   always wear a helmet whether while climbing or during a stop at the foot of the cliff
  • before starting to climb, double-check your safety equipment reciprocally; climbing harness, quickdraws, knot and brake stand
  • do not climbing alone
  • stop at the foot of the cliff only for as long as necessary to climb and always pay attention to other climbers on the wall
  • always check the gear present on the wall
  • make use of adequate securing gear after having learnt the correct use

 

Anyone who climbs, is aware of the risk inherent in the practice of this activity and accepts it.

Whether you have never practised this activity or even if you simply would like the supervision of expert and comptent specialists, do not hesitat to contact the local Alpin Guide.

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Tips and hints

Tourist Board Dolomiti Paganella

Start

Cavedago - località ai Piani (907 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Cavedago - località ai Piani

Turn-by-turn directions

"Lo Svago Sano" is by far the most technical, sunny and demanding cliff of the Paganella area and surroundings. The cliff is advised to medium/high level climbers, who want to test their own endurance and tecnique. Given the exposure (South/West) and the overhanging slope of the wall, the cliff can be approached all the year long, even when it is raining. The wall is composed of solid grey limestone during the first pitches on the slab, and of yellow limestone (slightly crumbly at the centre) in all the other itineraries, where the overhang challenges the forearms of those who approach this cliff. A via ferrata, about 10m. long with brackets and sling, connects the left side with the right one. 

 

30 ways from 6a to 8a+

1. Apprua: 6a, 15m.

2. Poppavia: 6a, 15m.

3. L'equilibrio delle cose: 7b, 15m.

4. Panta Rei: 6a+, 15m.

5. Lo scemo motorio: 6a, 18m.

6. E così sia: 7c+, 18m.; 8a, 10m.

7. Occhi di bosco: 8a+, 25m.

8. Carpe Diem: 8a, 18m.; 8a+, 10m.

9. Il sogno, la luna e il falò: 8a, 25m.

10. Demian: 8a+, 25m.

11. Ombra del vento: 8a, 25m.

12. La cura: 8a+, 25m.

13. Viva il Caiva: 8a, 25m.

14. Esperando Manolo: 7c+, 25m.

15. Puma: 8a, 25m.

16. Big Bordons: 6b, 25m.

17. Senza nome: 7c, 25m.

18. La pista: 7a+, 25m.

19. L'albanese: 6b+, 20m.

20. Santiago nello svago: 7a+, 25m.

21. L'eroe dei due mondi: 7a, 22m.

22. Cavedago beach: 7a, 20m.

23. Pablo è qui: 7c, 20m.

24. Lichenoterapia: 7a, 18m.

25. Soleado: 6a, 18m.

26. Le scarpette della Madonna: 6b, 18m.

27. Sognando California: 7a+, 20m.

28. Colori diversi: 7b+, 18m.

29. Roxanne: 8a, 18m.

30. Quando tramonta il sol: 7c, 20m.

 

The cliff is by the road connecting Cavedago and Fai della Paganella: after having parked near the old road to Spormaggiore, you take the path on the right, not considering the first two tracks on the right and getting the third one, on the right, arriving in short at the wall.

 

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Trentino Trasporti - line 611: from Trento to Mezzolombardo by train, from Mezzolombardo to Cavedago by bus.

 

Getting there

Coming from the NORTH: motorway exit San Michele all'Adige: at the round-about, you turn right to Mezzolombardo and then you continue direction Val di Non. After the tunnel, you turn left SS. on 421

Coming from the SOUTH: motorway exit Trento Nord, then continuing in direction Val di Non and Paganella Plateau. After the long tunnel near Mezzolombardo, you continue on the main road for about 1,5km. and then you turn left after a short tunnel (SS 421)

Parking

Near the old road to Spormaggiore.

 

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

A Guide for Climbing: guida falesie - available at the offices of the Touristboard Dolomiti Paganella (Andalo, Molveno e Fai della Paganella)

Book recommendations for this region:

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Equipment

Helmet, harness, biner.

Basic Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Hiking socks  
  • Rucksack (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking poles
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Rock climbing shoes
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Chalkbag plus Chalk
  • Belay/rappelling device
  • Quickdraws
  • Prusik loop
  • Cord
  • Slings
  • HMS screw-gate carabiner
  • Snap-gate carabiner
  • Personal anchor system
  • Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
  • Safelock carabiner
  • Small climbing rucksack
  • Finger tape
  • Climbing knife
  • Topo
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of friends/cams
  • Double set of friends /cams
  • Small friends/cams
  • Medium friends/cams
  • Large friends/cams
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Locking device
  • Big wall aider
  • Trad gear if required
  • Haul bag as required
  • Boulder brush
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

Questions and answers

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Rating

5.0
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Reviews
Difficulty
7c difficult
Distance
0.1 km
Duration
0:13 h
Ascent
139 m
overhanging Refreshment stops available Descending on foot

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