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Alpine climbing recommended route

Promeghin

Alpine climbing · San Lorenzo Dorsino
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APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • /
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • /
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Falesia Promeghin
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. Frizzera
  • / Falesia Promeghin
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. Frizzera
  • / Falesia Promeghin
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. Frizzera
  • / Falesia Promeghin
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. Frizzera
m 700 680 660 200 150 100 50 m
Unusual, spectacular crag!
moderate
Distance 0.2 km
0:18 h
50 m
0 m
Promeghin is an unusual crag, unique in all the area which ranges from Alto Garda to the Paganella plateau.

Author’s recommendation

San Lorenzo in Banale, one of Italian most beautiful villages.
Profile picture of Lorenzo Ventura
Author
Lorenzo Ventura
Update: August 04, 2021
Difficulty
5c moderate
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
712 m
Lowest point
661 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW

Safety information

Although the cliffs of Paganella area are periodically inspected, do not forget that they are still natural walls with free access and therefore subject to agents of various nature - both atmospheric and human - that may damage the rock and the gear present on the wall. For a climbing experience as safe as possible, it is necessary not to abide by the following safety norms:

  • always wear a helmet whether while climbing or during a stop at the foot of the cliff
  • before starting to climb, double-check your safety equipment reciprocally; climbing harness, quickdraws, knot and brake stand
  • do not climbing alone
  • stop at the foot of the cliff only for as long as necessary to climb and always pay attention to other climbers on the wall
  • always check the gear present on the wall
  • make use of adequate securing gear after having learnt the correct use

Anyone who climbs, is aware of the risk inherent in the practice of this activity and accepts it.

Whether you have never practised this activity or even if you simply would like the supervision of expert and comptent specialists, do not hesitat to contact the local Alpin Guide.

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Tips and hints

Touristboard Dolomiti Paganella

Start

San Lorenzo in Banale - località Promeghin (661 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

San Lorenzo in Banale - località Promeghin

Turn-by-turn directions

Promeghin is an unusual crag, unique in all the area which ranges from Alto Garda to the Paganella plateau. The crag runs along a wall of conglomerate rock, with many pockets and sticking out stones which are characteristic of this type of rock. Excellent bolting, with resin bolts and the wall which is mostly vertical has some bulges and overhanging sections, and is situated in a beautiful larch wood. This crag is ideal for families and for people who don’t climb, since it is situated near the village and has a lovely meadow at the foot of the wall with a few picnic tables. The ideal season for climbing is during the summer months due to the crag’s north-west exposure. To be avoided after abundant rainfall.

 

49 ways from 4a to 7b+

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Trentino Trasporti, through Mezzolombardo/Andalo or through Ponte Arche/San Lorenzo in Banale.

Getting there

Once you are near the church of San Lorenzo in Banale, which overlooks the state road, follow sign posts for the “campo sportivo/piscina” (sport fields/swimming pool) passing by the bank “Cassa Rurale” (coming from Molveno turn left). Follow this road for 900m till you reach a roundabout to then park in the opening on the right. From here continue on foot (1 min) climbing up the little road which leads to the sports area and the playground. Once on the meadow walk along the fence to the right till you find some wooden steps which, downhill, lead to the base of the rock face.

Parking

San Lorenzo in Banale - Promeghin.

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

Dolomiti Paganella Climb - available at the tourist offices.

Book recommendations for this region:

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Recommended maps for this region:

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Equipment

Helmet, harness, biner.

Basic Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Hiking socks  
  • Rucksack (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking poles
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Rock climbing shoes
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Chalkbag plus Chalk
  • Belay/rappelling device
  • Quickdraws
  • Prusik loop
  • Cord
  • Slings
  • HMS screw-gate carabiner
  • Snap-gate carabiner
  • Personal anchor system
  • Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
  • Safelock carabiner
  • Small climbing rucksack
  • Finger tape
  • Climbing knife
  • Topo
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of friends/cams
  • Double set of friends /cams
  • Small friends/cams
  • Medium friends/cams
  • Large friends/cams
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Locking device
  • Big wall aider
  • Trad gear if required
  • Haul bag as required
  • Boulder brush
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

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Photos from others


Difficulty
5c moderate
Distance
0.2 km
Duration
0:18 h
Ascent
50 m
Scenic Refreshment stops available Family-friendly

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