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Alpine climbing recommended route

Sant'Antonio

· 1 review · Alpine climbing · Altopiano della Paganella
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APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • /
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Schema delle vie della falesia
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Falesia Sant'Antonio
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Falesia Sant'Antonio
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Falesia Sant'Antonio
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Molveno
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
m 980 960 940 920 120 100 80 60 40 20 m
The emotion of climbing over the lake!
moderate
Distance 0.1 km
0:11 h
55 m
0 m
The cliff is located just a few hundred meters from the lake and it is a sort of anticipation of the traditional ways of the Brenta Dolomites.
Profile picture of Lorenzo Ventura
Author
Lorenzo Ventura
Update: September 15, 2020
Difficulty
5a moderate
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
985 m
Lowest point
929 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW

Safety information

Although the cliffs of Paganella area are periodically inspected, do not forget that they are still natural walls with free access and therefore subject to agents of various nature - both atmospheric and human - that may damage the rock and the gear present on the wall. For a climbing experience as safe as possible, it is necessary not to abide by the following safety norms:

 

  • always wear a helmet whether while climbing or during a stop at the foot of the cliff
  • before starting to climb, double-check your safety equipment reciprocally; climbing harness, quickdraws, knot and brake stand
  • do not climbing alone
  • stop at the foot of the cliff only for as long as necessary to climb and always pay attention to other climbers on the wall
  • always check the gear present on the wall
  • make use of adequate securing gear after having learnt the correct use

 

Anyone who climbs, is aware of the risk inherent in the practice of this activity and accepts it.

Whether you have never practised this activity or even if you simply would like the supervision of expert and comptent specialists, do not hesitat to contact the local Alpin Guide.

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Tips and hints

Tourist Board Dolomiti Paganella

Start

Molveno - via Lungolago (928 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Molveno - via Lungolago

Turn-by-turn directions

S. Antonio cliff is composed of a small dolomite amphitheatre dominated by a wide roof and it reminds the climers of old times. Most pitches are 20/25 meters and from the top of the wall you can enjoy a unique view of the lake, the village and the majestic Croz dell'Altissimo. Although S. Antonio is a cliff also suitable for less experienced climbers, it is advisable for everyone approaching this cliff to pay attention to the possible fall of rocks, given the steep slope and the Dolomitic rock's natuaral crumbliness.

 

36 ways from 4a to 7b

1. La classica: 4a, 10m.

2. Trans: 6a+, 20m.

3. Brezgnef: 6a+, 20m.

4. 'Sti ani: 5c, 25m.

5. Ciuiga: 6b, 25m.

6. Hasta luego: 6c+, 20m.

7. La sfesa: 6a, 25m.

8. Ciapa&Tira: 6b, 10m.

9. Boulder Boy: 6b+, 25m.

10. Mucugno Man: 6b, 25m.

11. Dita d'acciaio: 6c, 25m.

12. Fralos: 6a+, 25m.

13. Go!: 6b, 25m.

14. Juma: 6b, 20m.

15. Scroda: 4a, 10m.; 6a+, 15m.

16. Nik: 4a, 10m.; 6b+, 15m.

17. Cido: 3b, 10m; 4b, 15m.

18. Bebe: 6a+, 15m.

19. Pero: 5c, 10m.

20 Ocio e Gamba: 6a+, 15m.; 6a, 15m.

21. Zambo: 4c, 25m.

22. Senza Nome: 6b, 25m.

23. Alice: 5b, 25m.

24. El Botega: 7b, 25m.

25. Linty: 7a, 25m.

26. Roly: 6c+, 25m.

27. H2O: 5c, 25m.

28. Franz: 6b, 25m.

29. 4x4: 6a+, 18m.

30. 4x4 Variante sx: 6a+, 18m.

31. El Skirlat: 5c, 25m.

32. Io ci provo: 6a, 15m.

33. Senza Nome: 6b, 25m.

34. Lunelm: 4b, 15m.

35. Panoramix: 5c, 15m.

36. Voglia di lago: 6a, 15m.

 

You get easily to the cliff starting from Molveno lido: after passing the football pitch, you go forward for about 15 minutes, first on asphalt and then on a dirt road leading to Baita Ciclaimino and to rifugio Croz dell'Altissimo. Indications, on the left, lead you to the cliff.

 

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Trentino Trasporti - line 611.

Getting there

Motorway exit Trento nord, then direction Val di Non and Altopiano della Paganella. At the exit of the long tunnel, near the village of Mezzolombardo, we turn right on the SP 64, direction Fai della Paganella - Andalo - Molveno. 

Parking

Parking places in the town centre, or on the lake.

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

A guide for clmbing: free brochure available at the offices of the Tourist Board Dolomiti Paganella (Andalo, Molveno, Fai della Paganella)

Book recommendations for this region:

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Recommended maps for this region:

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Equipment

Helmet, harness, biner.

Questions and answers

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Rating

4.0
(1)
Angela Kolb
July 30, 2019 · Community
Der Beschilderung "Palestra di roccia" folgen. Abzweigung nach links kommt von Molveno aus früher als auf der Karte ;)
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When did you do this route? July 30, 2019
Photo: Angela Kolb, Community

Photos from others


Reviews
Difficulty
5a moderate
Distance
0.1 km
Duration
0:11 h
Ascent
55 m
Scenic Refreshment stops available Wall Descending on foot

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