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Alpine climbing recommended route

Sasedei

Alpine climbing · Altopiano della Paganella
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APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Sasedei
    / Sasedei
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Sasedei
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Sasedei
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Sasedei
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • /
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Castel Belfort
    Photo: ph. Storytravellers, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Parco Faunistico
    Photo: ph. Astrologo, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Parco Faunistico
    Photo: ph. Astrologo, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Castel Belfort
    Photo: ph. Federico_@gamma_f, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Parco Faunistico
    Photo: ph. Astrologo, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Parco Faunistico
    Photo: ph. Astrologo, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
m 680 675 670 665 60 50 40 30 20 10 m
“Sasedei” cliff is located close to the peculiar Castle Belfort (14th century), near Spormaggiore.
moderate
Distance 0.1 km
0:05 h
16 m
0 m
“Sasedei” cliff is located close to the peculiar Castle Belfort, near Spormaggiore. Its position, close to the car park as well as to the wide picnic area, makes of this cliff the ideal spot for families and friends who want to spend an afternoon outdoor.

Author’s recommendation

A visit to Castle Belfort and to the Wildlife Park in Spormaggiore, where you can see bears, wolves and other animals of the Alps.
Profile picture of Lorenzo Ventura
Author
Lorenzo Ventura
Update: September 15, 2020
Difficulty
5a+ moderate
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
682 m
Lowest point
666 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW

Safety information

Although the cliffs of Paganella area are periodically inspected, do not forget that they are still natural walls with free access and therefore subject to agents of various nature - both atmospheric and human - that may damage the rock and the gear present on the wall. For a climbing experience as safe as possible, it is necessary not to abide by the following safety norms:

  • always wear a helmet whether while climbing or during a stop at the foot of the cliff
  • before starting to climb, double-check your safety equipment reciprocally; climbing harness, quickdraws, knot and brake stand
  • do not climbing alone
  • stop at the foot of the cliff only for as long as necessary to climb and always pay attention to other climbers on the wall
  • always check the gear present on the wall
  • make use of adequate securing gear after having learnt the correct use

Anyone who climbs, is aware of the risk inherent in the practice of this activity and accepts it.

Whether you have never practised this activity or even if you simply would like the supervision of expert and comptent specialists, do not hesitat to contact the local Alpin Guide.

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Tips and hints

Tourist Board Dolomiti Paganella

Start

Spormaggiore - near SS. 421 (666 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Spormaggiore - near SS. 421

Turn-by-turn directions

“Sasedei” cliff is located close to the peculiar Castle Belfort, in Spormaggiore. Its position, close to the car park as well as to the wide picnic area, makes of this cliff the ideal spot for families and friends who want to spend an afternoon outdoors. Even those who don’t enjoy climbing will be able to relax or take a walk in the woods, following the convenient path that connects Spormaggiore to Belfort Castle, which runs at the foot of the rock wall. It is advisable to approach the wall during summer or mid-season afternoons, when it is kissed by the sun. It is discouraged after abundant rains. Still visited only by a few, the tranquillity of this cliff is one of a kind, in fact it is not uncommon to bump into some roe deers on the way to the wall, especially during the first morning hours or after sunset.

 

26 ways, from 4b to 7b

1. Musk: 4b, 8m.

2. Baby: 4b, 8m.

3. Et Rei: 4c, 8m.

4. Shangai Bait: 4c, 10m.

5. Relativo: 5a, 10m.

6. Mami sta in pensiero: 5a, 10m.

7. Tremors: 5b, 12m.

8. Masso conico: 4c, 12m.

9. Sopa de Caracol: 5a, 12m.

10. Tempi migliori: 5c, 15m.

11. Via interdet: 5a, 15m.

12. Liberamente: 6a+, 15m.

13. Inside: 6a, 12m.

14. Alta tensione: 6c, 12m.

15. Fa' la mossa giusta: 6c, 15m.

16. Only the strong: 6b+, 15m.

17. Una piuma blu: 6c, 15m.

18. Osso buco: 5c, 10m.

19. Ocio: 6a, 10m.

20. Bus e mez: 6a+, 10m.

21. La prima volta: 6a, 10m.

22. Psico Killer: 7b, 12m.

23. Gromial (sx): 6b+, 12m.

24. Gromial (dx): 6a, 12m.

25. Billy: 5c, 12m.

26. Gruviera: 5b, 12m.

 

About 1km. above the town centre of Spormaggiore, you take the first dirt road on the right. 20m. after leaving the main road you will find the car park with a picnic area (also visible from the main road). Proceed on foot (5 min) down the steep dirt road at the entrance of the car park, turn left at the crossroad with the level forest road and you will reach the vast park with picnic area; the cliff is well visible at the left of the path.

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Trentino Trasporti - line 611: from Trento to Mezzolombardo by train, from Mezzolombardo to Spormaggiore by bus.

Getting there

Coming from the NORTH: motorway exit San Michele all'Adige: at the round-about, you turn right to Mezzolombardo and then you continue direction Val di Non. After the tunnel, you turn left SS. on 421

Coming from the SOUTH: motorway exit Trento Nord, then continuing in direction Val di Non and Paganella Plateau. After the long tunnel near Mezzolombardo, you continue on the main road for about 1,5km. and then you turn left after a short tunnel (SS 421)

Parking

Near SS. 421 between Spormaggiore and Castel Belfort.

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

A Guide for Climbing: guida falesie - for free at the offices of the Tourist Board Dolomiti Paganella (Andalo, Molveno e Fai della Paganella)

Book recommendations for this region:

Show more

Equipment

Helmet, harness, biner.

Basic Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Hiking socks  
  • Rucksack (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking poles
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Rock climbing shoes
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Chalkbag plus Chalk
  • Belay/rappelling device
  • Quickdraws
  • Prusik loop
  • Cord
  • Slings
  • HMS screw-gate carabiner
  • Snap-gate carabiner
  • Personal anchor system
  • Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
  • Safelock carabiner
  • Small climbing rucksack
  • Finger tape
  • Climbing knife
  • Topo
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of friends/cams
  • Double set of friends /cams
  • Small friends/cams
  • Medium friends/cams
  • Large friends/cams
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Locking device
  • Big wall aider
  • Trad gear if required
  • Haul bag as required
  • Boulder brush
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

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Photos from others


Difficulty
5a+ moderate
Distance
0.1 km
Duration
0:05 h
Ascent
16 m
Refreshment stops available Family-friendly

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