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Alpine climbing recommended route

Vie a più tiri

Alpine climbing · Altopiano della Paganella
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APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Vie a più tiri
    / Vie a più tiri
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Vie a più tiri
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Scheme of the wall
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Fai della Paganella
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Cavedago
    Photo: ph. Modica, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
m 1150 1100 1050 1000 950 900 300 250 200 150 100 50 m
Three new itineraries accessible without having to endure long hours of walking,
moderate
Distance 0.3 km
0:27 h
194 m
0 m
These three new itineraries are some of thefew rock climbing routes in the Paganella plateau which are accessible without having to endure long hours of walking, as opposed tothe many routes that you find in the renownedBrenta Dolomites walls.
Profile picture of Lorenzo Ventura
Author
Lorenzo Ventura
Update: September 16, 2020
Difficulty
6a moderate
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
1,133 m
Lowest point
939 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW

Safety information

Although the cliffs of Paganella area are periodically inspected, do not forget that they are still natural walls with free access and therefore subject to agents of various nature - both atmospheric and human - that may damage the rock and the gear present on the wall. For a climbing experience as safe as possible, it is necessary not to abide by the following safety norms:

  • always wear a helmet whether while climbing or during a stop at the foot of the cliff
  • before starting to climb, double-check your safety equipment reciprocally; climbing harness, quickdraws, knot and brake stand
  • do not climbing alone
  • stop at the foot of the cliff only for as long as necessary to climb and always pay attention to other climbers on the wall
  • always check the gear present on the wall
  • make use of adequate securing gear after having learnt the correct use

 Anyone who climbs, is aware of the risk inherent in the practice of this activity and accepts it.

Whether you have never practised this activity or even if you simply would like the supervision of expert and comptent specialists, do not hesitat to contact the local Alpin Guide.

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Tips and hints

Tourist Board Dolomiti Paganella

Start

Road from Cavedago to Fai della Paganella (938 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Road from Cavedago to Fai della Paganella

Turn-by-turn directions

These three new itineraries are some of thefew rock climbing routes in the Paganella plateau which are accessible without having to endure long hours of walking, as opposed tothe many routes that you find in the renowned Brenta Dolomites walls. These itineraries (70 and 100 meters long) offer to the climbers a unique view of green parks, valleys and the high peaks of the Brenta Group. These routes are advised to medium-level climbers, who already have experience in rock climbing and in the fundamental safety applications as well as the descend on double rope. The itineraries are “spit nailed” and the stops are equipped with a chain. Each pitch is about 20-25m long.The use of a 70m rope is advised.

 

3 ways from 5b to 6c

1. Buon compleanno Herta: 6a, 6a+, 5c

2. Via della rinascita: 5b, 6c, 6a+

3. La guerra è follia: 6b+, 6c, 5b

 

Once passed Cavedago’s residential area turn righttowards Fai della Paganella. After 700m youwill find the car park on the right, next to twolarge rocks.Proceed on foot (15 min), trace back along thepaved road for about 50m, hence take the widepath on the right that goes up, following it untilyou spot the rock wall. Reach the wall with theaid of the fixed ropes located at the bottom andthen continue on the right along the wall, goingover some single pitches on yellow rock. At thispoint you will find the beginning of the first routewhere the wall becomes slightly more leaned(grey-coloured limestone rock).

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Trentino Trasporti - line 611: from Trento to Mezzolombardo by train, from Mezzolombardo to Cavedago by bus.

Getting there

Coming from the NORTH: motorway exit San Michele all'Adige: at the round-about, you turn right to Mezzolombardo and then you continue direction Val di Non. After the tunnel, you turn left SS. on 421

Coming from the SOUTH: motorway exit Trento Nord, then continuing in direction Val di Non and Paganella Plateau. After the long tunnel near Mezzolombardo, you continue on the main road for about 1,5km. and then you turn left after a short tunnel (SS 421)

Parking

Near the road connecting Cavedago and Fai della Paganella.

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

A Guide for Climbing: guida falesie - for free at the offices of the Tourist Board Dolomiti Paganella (Andalo, Molveno e Fai della Paganella)

Book recommendations for this region:

Show more

Equipment

Helmet, harness, biner.

Basic Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Hiking socks  
  • Rucksack (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking poles
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Alpine Climbing

  • Rock climbing shoes
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Chalkbag plus Chalk
  • Belay/rappelling device
  • Quickdraws
  • Prusik loop
  • Cord
  • Slings
  • HMS screw-gate carabiner
  • Snap-gate carabiner
  • Personal anchor system
  • Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
  • Safelock carabiner
  • Small climbing rucksack
  • Finger tape
  • Climbing knife
  • Topo
  • Single rope
  • Half ropes
  • Twin ropes
  • Friend/cam 0
  • Friend/cam 0.1
  • Friend/cam offset 0.1-0.2
  • Friend/cam 0.2
  • Friend/cam offset 0.2-0.3
  • Friend/cam 0.3
  • Friend/cam offset 0.3-0.4
  • Friend/cam 0.4
  • Friend/cam offset 0.4-0.5
  • Friend/cam 0.5
  • Friend/cam offset 0.5-0.75
  • Friend/cam 1
  • Friend/cam 2
  • Friend/cam 3
  • Friend/cam 4
  • Friend/cam 5
  • Friend/cam 6
  • Friend/cam 7
  • Friend/cam 8
  • Set of friends/cams
  • Double set of friends /cams
  • Small friends/cams
  • Medium friends/cams
  • Large friends/cams
  • Set of nuts
  • Double set of nuts
  • Small nuts
  • Medium nuts
  • Large nuts
  • Nut tool
  • Tricam(s)
  • Ball nut(s)
  • (Active) Camming device(s) for wider cracks such as the Gipsy
  • Hexentric(s)
  • Progress capture pulley(s) such as the Petzl Traxion
  • Micro ascender(s) such as the Petzl TiBloc
  • Pitons and hammer
  • Locking device
  • Big wall aider
  • Trad gear if required
  • Haul bag as required
  • Boulder brush
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

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Photos from others


Difficulty
6a moderate
Distance
0.3 km
Duration
0:27 h
Ascent
194 m
Wall

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