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Fixed rope route recommended route

Bocchette Alte

Fixed rope route · Altopiano della Paganella
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APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Through the Val Perse to Bocca di Tuckett
    / Through the Val Perse to Bocca di Tuckett
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. www.via-ferrata.de
  • / Bocchette Alte
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. www.via-ferrata.de
  • / Brenta Dolomites
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. www.via-ferrata.de
  • / Some vertical tracks
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. www.via-ferrata.de
  • / View to the valley and to Madonna di Campiglio
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. www.via-ferrata.de
  • / Bocchette Alte
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. www.via-ferrata.de
  • / Bocchette Alte
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. www.via-ferrata.de
  • / Bocchette Alte
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. www.via-ferrata.de
  • / Hut Alimonta
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. www.via-ferrata.de
  • / Sunset at hut Alimonta
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. www.via-ferrata.de
  • / View from Bocca di Tuckett
    Photo: Lorenzo Ventura, ph. www.via-ferrata.de
  • / Bocchette
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
m 2900 2800 2700 2600 2500 3,5 3,0 2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 km
The most spectacular part of the most famous via ferrata of the Brenta Dolomites.
difficult
Distance 3.8 km
3:11 h
719 m
817 m
2,913 m
2,579 m

Into the heart of the Brenta Dolomites, UNESCO world heritage, along difficult tracks through enchanting, unforgettable areas.

 

 

Profile picture of Lorenzo Ventura
Author
Lorenzo Ventura
Update: August 12, 2021
Difficulty
B/C difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
2,913 m
Lowest point
2,579 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec

Safety information

Not for beginners!

1) Prepare your itinerary

2) Choose an excursion appropiate for your real ability and training level 

3) Choose the fitting equimpent

4) Check the weather forecast 

5) Hiking alone is risky 

6) Give details about your itinerary and about the approximate hour of your return 

7) Do not hesitate to entrust you to an expert 

8) Pay attention to the indication and signals you will find along your journey 

9) Do not hesitate to retrace your steps

10) Ask for help and call the number 112 

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Tips and hints

Touristboard Dolomiti Paganella

Start

Bocca di Tuckett (2,679 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Hut Alimonta

Turn-by-turn directions

From Bocca di Tuckett, continue right from here following signs up stepped rocks to the obvious start of the ferrata. Cables and ladders follow steeply up the crest to vertical ladders that lead up to the main ledge system. Crampons and ice axes may be found necessary on this first tiring, cold and windy section, especially at the start of the season. The exposed but well-equipped ledge now leads off leftwards, along the eastern flank of Cima Brenta. After an easy zigzag ascent reach a plaque and the Via Normale that scrambles up, via cairns and a series of chimneys, to Cima Vallesinella and Cima Brenta (3151 m – 1 hour, care and attention required). The ferrata however continues on and descends into a dark and damp gully, past cables to a small icefield. This section is rightly considered the crux as the cable may be buried in snow at the start of the season and tends not to be taught. After having crossed this (queues possible) the ferrate leads up and down ledges to reach a wide terrace with a fantastic view south onto the flat Spallone dei Massodi and the impressive Cima Brenta to the north. Leave this panorama point and descend steeply via cables and ladders to the Bocca Alta dei Massodi and the famous Scala degli Amici. Thirty exposed vertical meters lead to the windy Spallone at 3000m. Follow signs across this to duck down into a gully and a gravely path that descends to further ladders and the saddle (Bocca Bassa dei Massodi nestled beneath Cima Molveno (2917m). A variation leads off rightwards slightly beforehand down the Via Ferrata Oliva Detassis, but the Via delle Bocchette Alte continues left at the fork to the obvious saddle and then on up to Cima Molveno. Descend easily to the Vedretta dei Sfulmini glacier and Rifugio Alimonta (2580m).

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Trentino Trasporti - line 611: Trento-Mezzolombardo by train, Mezzolombardo-Molveno by bus.

Getting there

From the motorway exit Trento nord we drive direction val di Non and Altopiano della Paganella; just afer the long tunnel by Mezzolombardo, we turn right (SP 64), to Fai della Paganella, Andalo and Molveno. 

Parking

Molveno, departure of the cableway.

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Recommended maps for this region:

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Equipment

Trekkingshoes, rain-jacket, water; via ferrata set.

Basic Equipment for Via Ferratas

  • Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Hiking socks  
  • Rucksack (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking poles
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Kit para bolhas
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Via Ferratas

  • Via ferrata set
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Via ferrata or hard-wearing safety gloves
  • Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
  • Via ferrata belay kit if required (when accompanying beginners and / or children)
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

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Photos from others


Difficulty
B/C difficult
Distance
3.8 km
Duration
3:11 h
Ascent
719 m
Descent
817 m
Highest point
2,913 m
Lowest point
2,579 m
Scenic Geological highlights Completely cable-secured Classic via ferrata

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