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Fixed rope route recommended route

Bocchette Centrali

Fixed rope route · Altopiano della Paganella
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  • Hütte Pedrotti
    / Hütte Pedrotti
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Croz dell'Altissimo
    Photo: ph. Frizzera, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Cengia lungo le Bocchette Centrali
    Photo: APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Bocchette Centrali
    Photo: APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Bocchette Centrali
    Photo: APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Bocchette Centrali
    Photo: APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Bocchette Centrali
    Photo: APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Panorama verso la Presanella e Madonna di Campiglio
    Photo: APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
  • / Bocchette Centrali
    Photo: ph. ViaFerrata.de, APT Dolomiti di Brenta e Paganella
m 2800 2700 2600 2500 2400 2300 2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 km
The first part of the most spectacular via ferrata of Brenta Dolomites. 
difficult
Distance 2.9 km
2:06 h
589 m
457 m
2,846 m
2,447 m
Into the very heart of Brenta Dolomites, from rifugio Pedrotti to rifugio Alimonta, in a highly spectacular and wild scenario.
Profile picture of Lorenzo Ventura
Author
Lorenzo Ventura
Update: July 24, 2020
Difficulty
D/E difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Risk potential
Highest point
2,846 m
Lowest point
2,447 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec

Safety information

Not for beginners!

1) Prepare your itinerary

2) Choose an excursion appropiate for your real ability and training level 

3) Choose the fitting equimpent

4) Check the weather forecast 

5) Hiking alone is risky 

6) Give details about your itinerary and about the approximate hour of your return 

7) Do not hesitate to entrust you to an expert 

8) Pay attention to the indication and signals you will find along your journey 

9) Do not hesitate to retrace your steps

10) Ask for help and call the number 112 

Please note that the practicability of the itineraries in a mountain environment is strictly linked to the contingent conditions and is therefore influenced by natural phenomena, environmental changes and weather conditions. For this reason, the information contained in this page may have changed. Before leaving for a tour, make sure the path you will approach is still accessible by contacting the owner of the mountain hut, the alpine guides or the visitor centres of the nature parks, the info offices of the local tourist board.

Tips and hints

Tourist Board Dolomiti Paganella

Start

Rifugio Pedrotti (2,446 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Rifugio Alimonta

Turn-by-turn directions

Work on this famous via ferrata was initiated by SAT back in 1936. The remarkable beauty of the landscape, the daring nature of the route and the undeniable elegance of the Dolomites peaks explain the great fame of this itinerary.

The first part of the trail, dedicated to Otto Gottstein, gets underway just below the Bocca di Brenta. Numerous stairs of varying length and slope allow you to get around the Cima Brenta Alta from the west along a natural ledge that leads to the Campanil Basso notch (2620 meters).

Here begins the part of the trail dedicated to Arturo Castelli. The steep slopes of Campanil Bas begin to rise up to the Campanile Alto notch and the small Sentinella plateau. From here continue along the ledge to the Bocchetta Bassa degli Sfulmini.

Here the section of the Bocchette named after Carla Benini de Stanchina begins. From the ledge carved into the rock, remaining on the eastern side, the Torri degli Sfulmini are crossed up to the Bocchetta Alta degli Sfulmini, where the Figari Trail begins. The Torre di Brenta is bypassed from the south-east, on terraces excavated in the rock (this is perhaps the most adrenaline-filled stretch of the via ferrata). You then reach the characteristic rocks that tower over the Bocca Armi. You descend through a series of metal stairs alternating with a sling. In about 30 minutes you reach Rifugio Alimonta, by going down the Vedretta degli Armi. 

 

There are two routes you could take back to Molveno:

- go down to the Brentei hut and from there go up to the Bocca di Brenta and then the Pedrotti hut.

- take the via ferrata Felice Spellini, returning to the Pedrotti hut.

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

Trentino Trasporti - line 611: Trento-Mezzolombardo by train, Mezzolombardo-Molveno by bus.

Getting there

From the motorway exit Trento nord we drive direction val di Non and Altopiano della Paganella; just afer the long tunnel by Mezzolombardo, we turn right (SP 64), to Fai della Paganella, Andalo and Molveno. 

Parking

Molveno, departure of the cableway.

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Recommended maps for this region:

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Equipment

Trekkingshoes, rain-jacket, water; via ferrata set.

Basic Equipment for Via Ferratas

  • Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Hiking socks  
  • Rucksack (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking poles
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Kit para bolhas
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Via Ferratas

  • Via ferrata set
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Via ferrata or hard-wearing safety gloves
  • Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
  • Via ferrata belay kit if required (when accompanying beginners and / or children)
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

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Difficulty
D/E difficult
Distance
2.9 km
Duration
2:06 h
Ascent
589 m
Descent
457 m
Highest point
2,846 m
Lowest point
2,447 m
Scenic Geological highlights Completely cable-secured Linear route Classic via ferrata

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