The way from Tschierv to Lü is generally unknown to tourists, but local people enjoy travelling this route. Even in winter the path often has a well-worn look. The name Tschierv means deer. In earlier times the local people earned a livelihood from mining and pack-horse trains. In the days of the stage coach, Tschierv was a place where horses could be changed. Today it is quiet – apart from traffic – here in this village that now has settled down to mountain agriculture.
From Plaz we hike through meadows across to the last houses of Chasüras. Then we turn right, eastwards, into the little valley of Aua da Laier. In the wood, the path crosses a stream and branches off in a turn to Lü Daint – if we do not choose to hike directly up to Lü. Both possibilities have something to recommend them. The direct way passes through undulating pasture land. From Lü Daint, however, we make our way through the entire length of the charming village of Lü. This is the highest-altitude independent municipality in the country. In earlier days, it was a station for pack-horse trains on the way to S-charl and Scuol. We enjoy the panoramic view of the Alpine landscape: in the foreground we see Piz Daint, Piz Dora, Chazforà and Turettas, and in the distance the wide territory of the Ortler.
As we continue our hike, we do well to keep to the road, except for one very apparent short cut. There is not much traffic here. In Lüsai we can take a look at an unusual sgraffito house. It's impossible to miss. The whole façade is decorated with the same type of ornament. Only in one place does the motif change its direction. Below the village, we turn off to the right in a steep curve. A narrow hiking trail brings us to the River Rombach, which we cross (as we do the pass road a little further on), before we find ourselves in the pretty village of Fuldera. The village gets its name from the word fundaria, meaning snow-melt. We can admire the prettily painted façades and the Engadin type houses with Tyrolean variations.
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Scraping and Painting: In 1467, an Italian artist, probably from the Bormio area, decorated the window frames of the Chalavanda house in Müstair using the sgraffito technique. This new style of decoration soon had many exponents. In a first step, the façade of the house is roughly plastered, then covered with a fine whitewash. This fine mortar is then covered with sand or even tuff sand. It is laid on with a trowel, well spread and pressed in. This whitewash is resistant to erosion and long-lasting. Now the whitewash is painted over with a thick lime-wash – either the entire house or just the part that is to be decorated. So long as this wash is still wet, the desired motifs can be scraped into it. They look darker than the whitewash on the façade, but are never in very sharp contrast. In some places it became the custom to darken the wash with wood-ash.
Parallel to this sgraffito decoration, and especially in later times, coloured house decorations were created in the Münster Valley and in the Engadin below Sent. Sgraffito technique and façade painting are arts cultivated in the Münster Valley and the Engadin to this day. Following a phase where crude and eccentric decorative motifs were used, the tendency today is again to stick to more graceful artistic forms.
Tschierv - Lü - Lüsai - Fuldera
Getting there: By rail to Zernez. From there by Post-Bus tu Tschierv.
Getting back: By Post-Bus from Fuldera to Zernez. By rail from Zernez to Chur.
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike
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