Benedictine monk Placidus A. Spescha (1752 – 1833) once had this to say about Lake Toma: «This lake some 200 paces wide and 400 paces long is the basin from which the upper Rhine takes its source. It is a beautiful area, a worthy setting for the wellspring of such a river.»
As you hike your way across the Pazolastock, taking in the wonderful mountain panorama stretching from the Uri Alps down into the Surselva, you are likely to encounter very few people.
The tour begins on the Oberalp Pass, right behind the lighthouse, a replica of the Low Light of the Hook of Holland, symbolising a bridge from the source of the Rhine to its estuary. The summit of the Pazolastock is the first destination, which is reached after a gentle initial ascent followed by a succession of tight hairpin bends. To access the Fil da Tuma you need to negotiate a rocky, breezy ridge, with plenty of boulders to hold on to along the way. The trail leads past the Badus Hut, still very much in its original condition as it has not yet been caught up in the SAC's wave of renovations.
From the hut it is a 20-minute descent down to Lake Toma. And while you are unlikely to be alone here, you will always find a nice spot for resting and relaxing, whether it's on one of the large rocks overlooking the lake or the green meadows all around. The return leg to the Oberalp Pass takes you past the eastern side of the Pazolastock, where the sweetly fragrant Turk's cap lilies flower in summer.