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Via Ferrata recommended route

Via ferrata Ochsenwand C - D

· 1 review · Via Ferrata · Stubaital
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Tourismusverband Stubai Tirol KöR Verified partner  Explorers Choice 
  • Ochsenwand
    / Ochsenwand
    Photo: Tourismusverband Stubai Tirol, Tourismusverband Stubai Tirol KöR
  • / Kirche auf dem Weg zum Einstieg
    Photo: Tourismusverband Stubai Tirol, Tourismusverband Stubai Tirol
  • / Große Ochsenwand
    Photo: Tourismusverband Stubai Tirol KöR
m 3000 2800 2600 2400 2200 2000 1800 1600 2,5 2,0 1,5 1,0 0,5 km Panoramarestaurant Kreuzjoch Schlickeralm Bergstation Schlick 2000
Very interesting, long and beautiful via ferrata, one of the most famous ones in Austria.
difficult
Distance 2.6 km
3:15 h
850 m
850 m
The route has been constructed along the south ridge of Große Ochsenwand, therefore danger of rock fall exists only in the lower part of the ascent. The lightly overhanging rock face at the entry and the following dihedrals are the most difficult passages. If someone is over challenged at these passages better turn back, because the difference of high altitude of approx. 700 m (thereof 500 m secured) demands condition and well-experienced mountaineers. Also the descent on the regular path - very interesting as independent via ferrata excursion – has several secured passages. Throughout well secured, some passages need lots of energy, red signposted. Unsuitable for children and unexperienced!

Author’s recommendation

„Nordgrat (north-ridge)-via ferrata“ to Alpenklub-Scharte: From the summit along the ridge to the north, descent on rocky area to a scarp (C) over where you reach a wind gap. At the opposite a short way upwards (B) and on the left side forward to further securities, which lead over an exposed, steep rock ridge (partly B and B/C). At the imposing towers a short crossing and approx. 100m descent (B to B/C) to a wind gap with a rock tower.   Now in east direction below the Kleine Ochsenwand towards north, crossing fine ledges   in 15-20 minutes to Alpenklub Scharte (2451m). From here on the signposted trail “Gsaller Weg” (the “Gsaller Weg” leads to north-east direction to the Marchreisen Spitze) to east direction downwards to Roßgrube and back to Schlicker Alm. Tip: The ascent over the secured north ridge via ferrata (B and C) to the Große Ochsenwand is also worth to climb as an independent 1-day excursion.
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Author
Tourismusverband Stubai Tirol
Update: August 22, 2017
Difficulty
C/D difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
Große Ochsenwand, 2,700 m
Lowest point
Start Klettersteig Große Ochsenwand, 2,000 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Cardinal direction
NESW

Safety information

In the lower part danger of rock fall; the descent is also classified as via ferrate and after snowfall partly difficult.
Before starting the tour please take care of the weather conditions. Also get information about the tour conditions in the Stubai mountain guide offices. You receive the updated list of the hut openings in the offices of the Tourist Board Stubai Tirol.    

Tips and hints

www.stubai.at ; www.schlick2000.at

Start

Mid-station „Froneben“, 1351 m or mountain station „Kreuzjoch“, 2108 m of the cableway „Schlick 2000“ (Kreuzjochbahn) in Fulpmes. (1,814 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Turn-by-turn directions

Very difficult. In the lower part on 400 Hm throughout B to C, some passages at the entry C/D or D, at the upper part part mostly walking area with short, secured passages (A/B to C/D) and some easy climbing passages to 1+

Durations / Difference in high altitude:  
Access: 1,5 Std. / 650 Hm (from mid-station); 1 hour from mountain station
Via ferrata: 3 hours / 700 Hm
Descent: 3-3,5 hours / until 1350 Hm
Exposition: south to south-east

Note


all notes on protected areas

Public transport

From the train station Innsbruck are regularly running busses to Fulpmes.

Getting there

From Innsbruck via Brenner motorway A13 or on the main road to junction Stubaital and Fulpmes. Through the village towards “Schlick2000” or “Kreuzjochbahn” to the valley station of the cableway.   Train/Bus: main station Innsbruck and by bus to Fulpmes.

a) From mid-station „Froneben“: Ascend by cableway to station Froneben (1351 m; to here from Fulpmes approx. 1 hour walking time). From here on the forest trail in 40-50 minutes to Schlicker Alm (1640 m; Access also permitted by mountain bike!). Another 20 minutes on the road into the valley to a big red signpost showing you the direction to “Schlicker Klettersteig”, from where you walk 25 minutes to the access.

b) From mountain station „Kreuzoch“: Along the forest trail or over the pistes downwards to Zirmachalm and in a big turn to the other valley side to the junction of the access path to the via ferrata (approx. 40 minutes shorter than the ascend a)
Taxi service to Schlickeralm: Tel. +43 (0)5225/62409.

Parking

Parking Schlick 2000 cableways

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Equipment

 via ferrata set, helmet, good mountain boots or climbing shoes; security rope for youths;

Basic Equipment for Via Ferratas

  • Sturdy, comfortable and waterproof hiking boots or approach shoes
  • Layered, moisture wicking clothing
  • Hiking socks  
  • Rucksack (with rain cover)
  • Protection against sun, rain and wind (hat, sunscreen, water- and windproof jacket and suitable legwear)
  • Sunglasses
  • Hiking poles
  • Ample supply of drinking water and snacks
  • First aid kit
  • Blister kit
  • Bivy / survival bag  
  • Survival blanket
  • Headlamp
  • Pocket knife
  • Whistle
  • Cell phone
  • Cash
  • Navigation equipment / map and compass
  • Emergency contact details
  • ID

Technical Equipment for Via Ferratas

  • Via ferrata set
  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Via ferrata or hard-wearing safety gloves
  • Positioning lanyard / personal anchor system with screwgate carabiners for resting
  • Via ferrata belay kit if required (when accompanying beginners and / or children)
  • The 'basic' and 'technical' equipment lists are generated based on the selected activity. They are not exhaustive and only serve as suggestions for what you should consider packing.
  • For your safety, you should carefully read all instructions on how to properly use and maintain your equipment.
  • Please ensure that the equipment you bring complies with local laws and does not include restricted items.

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Rating

5.0
(1)
Johann Ryba
January 30, 2011 · Community
Eine der schönsten Touren in den Westalpen. Wunderbar, aber nichts für Anfänger
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Reviews
Difficulty
C/D difficult
Distance
2.6 km
Duration
3:15 h
Ascent
850 m
Descent
850 m
Multi-stage route Scenic Geological highlights

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