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Dolomites without borders - Stage 3: Three Peaks - Rifugio Comici

· 3 reviews · Fixed rope route · Dolomites
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    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • / Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confine wird gefördert durch die EU, EFRE-Fonds und Interreg V-A Italia-Österreich, 2014-2020
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • / Toblinger Knoten Einstieg
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • / Leitern Toblinger Knoten
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • / Stollengang
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • / Stollen Paternkofel
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • / Schlüsselstelle Paternkofel
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • / Zinnenblick
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
m 2800 2600 2400 2200 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 km Büllelejochhütte (Rif. Pian di Cengia) Frankfurter Würstel Paternkofel Zsigmondyhütte (Rif. Comici) Toblinger Knoten
Dolomiti senza confini: 2 countries - 9 stages - 12 via ferratas - 17 refuges - 108 kilometers

Worthwhile summit crossing following in the footsteps of the First World War. Via ferrata Torre di Toblin and Sentiero de Luca/Innerkofler up Monte Paterno.

moderate
Distance 8.2 km
7:00 h
750 m
900 m
Torre di Toblin: D

From the summit the via ferrata offers stunning 360 degree panoramic views. The short but very steep and exposed ascent on the north face is largely via ladders (via ferrata ladders). This short stretch is a good trial stretch to discover if you can master the difficulties (difficulty to D) on the further stages. Descent via the eastern crest is easier and graded difficulty A,B.

 

Sentiero de Luca/Innerkofler C

Varied via ferrata with access through a WW1 tunnel (head torch required!). This is the most frequented tour in the region and so “congestion” can occur, especially in August. Earlier in the season there is still some remaining ice in the tunnels and in the snowfields before Forcella del Camoscio. The crux is at the steep climb just after Forcella del Camoscio and is graded difficulty C. On the upside, you will be rewarded on Monte Paterno with direct views of the north faces of the Three Peaks.

 

Sentiero delle Forcelle: B

From the col of Monte Paterno you return via Forcella del Camoscio via the same path. In the steep section there are several possible descents to prevent congestion, but no-one bothers to observe those! Well secured via ferrata sections alternate with exposed passages.  During ascent and descent oncoming hikers must be expected every now and then.

Profile picture of Dolomiten ohne Grenzen |  Dolomiti senza confini
Author
Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini
Update: December 08, 2018
Difficulty
C/D moderate
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
2,739 m
Lowest point
2,224 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec

Rest Stop

Drei Zinnen Hütte (Rif. A. Locatelli)
Zsigmondyhütte (Rif. Comici)
Büllelejochhütte (Rif. Pian di Cengia)

Tips and hints

www.dolomitisenzaconfini.eu

 

Supported by EU, EFRE-Funds and Interreg V-A Italy-Austria, 2014-2020

Start

Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Turn-by-turn directions

Torre di Toblin/Via ferrata ladders: D

Behind the hut starts the ascent to Torre di Toblin marked in red. It is recommended to use the demanding via ferrata ladders on the north face and to descend via the north-eastern flank (Ferrata Feldkurat Hosp) The quickest way to reach the access to the via ferrata ladders is to cross south at Torre di Toblin.  At the access there is a cross from which you cross the ledges into the north face. The short but extremely steep path is completely secured with steel rope and ladders. The distances between the anchors are gentle on the nerves and modern. From the summit the descent is via the north-eastern flank (Ferrata Feldkurat Hosp). This via ferrata with maximum difficulty B is also very modern with short distances. Of course you can also use this path for your climb - 1.5 hrs.

 

Sentiero de Luca/Innerkofler  C

Past the Rifugio Antonio Locatelli the hike continues towards the well-known Salsiccia and on short stretches through rock tunnels and to the entrance of the Monte Paterno tunnel. (Don’t forget your head torch!). The path is defined and orientation is easy. In early summer you often come across fields of remaining snow just before Forcella del Camoscio, requiring you to carry light crampons. From Forcella del Camoscio you reach the crux, a short steep climb with difficulty C. There are two routes, whereby the left variant is intended for the ascent, the right for the descent.

The rest of the route to the summit of Monte Paterno is easy. The descent to Forcella del Camoscio is via the same route! 2 hrs.

 

Sentiero delle Forcelle: B

Follow the path from the Forcella del Camoscio in an easterly direction. Well secured via ferrata sections alternate with exposed passages. It is always possible to meet oncoming hikers as the tour can also be started from Rifugio Pian di Cengia.  A grassy slope takes us down to Forcella del Lago (2552m). From there the path takes us south past the ridge to the forestry path 104, from where it is another 10 minutes to Rifugio Pian di Cengia. - 3hrs.

From Rifugio Pian di Cengia (2528m) path 101 takes you in half an hour to Rifugio Comici (2224m). - 0.5 hrs.

Total 7 hrs.

Note


all notes on protected areas

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Author’s map recommendations

Tabacco 017

Book recommendations for this region:

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Equipment

Certified via ferrata set an helmet, alpine boots and gloves (for via ferratas).

Questions and answers

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Rating

4.0
(3)
Frank Eberhardt
August 16, 2021 · Community
Auch hier ist der GPX-Track irreführend. Von der Dreizinnenhütte zeigt ein kleines gelbes Schild an einer Nebenhütte Richtung Galleria Paterno. Nach der Galleria kommt man auf den De-Luca-Innerkofler Steig. Die Dreizinnenhütte ist sehr empfehlenswert, man sollte nur früh genug buchen.
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When did you do this route? August 14, 2021
Markus Bauser
August 08, 2021 · Community
3Zinnenhütte: absolute Frechheit: kein Emailkontakt keine Reservierungen und die Ausreden Kein Internet ist bei stundenlangen Whattsapp der Bediensteten falsch; Infrastruktur der Hütte 60iger Jahre; Essen top; KS Toplinger Konten: absolutes Highlight (C) Nordseitig ausgesetzt hoch; Der Innerkoflersteig ist nicht umsonst einer der bekanntesten KS; Der Alpiniweg zur Brüllejochhütte ist exzellent; Schöner Abstieg zur Comici Hütte (schönes Ambiente)
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Björn Mußmann
August 25, 2018 · Community
Die Runde um/über den Toblinger Knoten sollte den Wegmarkierungen am Fels folgend im Uhrzeigersinn und nicht wie hier im Track angegeben entgegengesetzt begangen werden. Dadurch hat man die steilen, teilweise senkrechten Leitern im Aufstieg und einen vergleichsweise moderaten, versicherten Abstieg vor sich. Außerdem scheint dies die Hauptgehrichtung zu sein. Ist man entgegengesetzt unterwegs dürfte mit ständigem Gegenverkehr zu rechnen sein...
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When did you do this route? August 13, 2018
Dolomiti senza confini - Dolomiten ohne Grenzen // Klettersteigtour an den Drei Zinnen
Video: Gipfelfreizeit

Photos from others

Dolomiti senza confini - Dolomiten ohne Grenzen // Klettersteigtour an den Drei Zinnen

Reviews
Difficulty
C/D moderate
Distance
8.2 km
Duration
7:00 h
Ascent
750 m
Descent
900 m
Multi-stage route Refreshment stops available classic via ferrata Linear route

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