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Fixed rope route recommended route

Dolomites without borders - Stage 7: Obstanserseehütte - Neue Porzehütte

Fixed rope route · Carnic Alps
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  • Klettersteig Große Kinigat Nord
    / Klettersteig Große Kinigat Nord
    Photo: Moreno Geremetta, Dolomiti senza confini
  • / Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confine wird gefördert durch die EU, EFRE-Fonds und Interreg V-A Italia-Österreich, 2014-2020
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • / Die Kinigat von der Filmoorhütte aus gesehen 2008
    Photo: Harald Herzog, Alpenverein Austria
  • /
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • /
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • /
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • /
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • /
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • /
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
  • /
    Photo: Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini, Alpenverein Austria
m 3000 2800 2600 2400 2200 2000 1800 1600 12 10 8 6 4 2 km Kinigat Obstansersee-Hütte Filmoor-Standschützenhütte Porzehütte
Dolomiti senza confini: 2 countries - 9 stages - 12 via ferratas - 17 refuges - 108 kilometers

The Ferrata del Monte Cavallino presents the most technically difficult challenge of the whole week. People who accept this challenge should be experienced with via ferratas of difficulty D. Because of the flat rocks, friction climbing shoes are recommended.

difficult
Distance 12.6 km
8:00 h
1,200 m
1,600 m
A very long stage and in the Ferrata del Monte Cavallino also a technically very demanding one. Large sections of the hiking trail run along the Carnic high route 403. From the hut Obstanserseehütte walk over the steep scree to Roßkopfthörl. Because of the shady location the snow field often remains to the end of July. If you have accomplished the demanding accent via the Ferrata del Monte Cavallino, you will be rewarded with views of the Europe cross.

 

Ferrata des Monte Cavallino/Große Kinigat: D

The via ferrata to Monte Cavallino is a difficult, Alpine-like via ferrata. The route runs up a large pillar. Especially in the lower part, there are some challenging climbing sections, mostly steep plates that only have a few iron clips. The tour should not be underestimated, because the total climbing length is 650m. All in all a tour through very impressive landscape where on your descent across Hintersattel you can also plan a rest stop at the rustic hut Filmoor-Standschützenhütte. Descent to the hut Filmoor-Standschützenhütte and then on via the Carnic high route towards the hut Neue Porzehütte.

Total 8 hrs.

Author’s recommendation

Friction climbing shoes make climbing on the flat rocks considerably easier. Possibly securing with ropes for weaker partners.
Profile picture of Dolomiten ohne Grenzen |  Dolomiti senza confini
Author
Dolomiten ohne Grenzen | Dolomiti senza confini
Update: December 08, 2018
Difficulty
D difficult
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
Grosser Kinigat, 2,660 m
Lowest point
1,886 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec

Rest Stop

Filmoor-Standschützenhütte
Obstansersee-Hütte
Porzehütte

Safety information

No exit possibilities along the via ferrata! Therefore, the tour should only be tackled in stable weather. In the middle part there is a white static rope, which leads to a bivouc place under a rock. In the event of a thunderstorm, it is the only place that offers protection.

Tips and hints

www.dolomitisenzaconfini.eu

http://www.bergsteigen.com/klettersteig/tirol/karnischer-hauptkamm/grosse-kinigat-klettersteig

 

Supported by EU, EFRE-Funds and Interreg V-A Italy-Austria, 2014-2020

Start

Obstanserseehütte (2,300 m)
Coordinates:
DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 

Destination

Neue Porzehütte

Turn-by-turn directions

The path takes us to the access of the Ferrata del Monte Cavallino along the Carnic high route 403. From the hut Obstanserseehütte  you climb the steep scree heap to Roßkopfthörl (2493m). From there descend towards Escherbaumtal. After Tascharrhütte (small hut along the way) the path starts to climb again and you reach a green, flatter high valley. In the centre of this is a rock formation. There you find the signpost ferrata del Monte Cavallino. Immediately prior to this you leave the path and climb to the right of these rocks following the red dots to the access. - 2 hrs.

 

Ferrata del Monte Cavallino north face: D

The route leads us via the Elfenbeinpfeiler and Schwitzerwandl to Kartitscherköpfl, which is a suitable place for a break. After the final steep section of the rock face with difficulty D, we reach the only possible bivouac place. After that difficulty levels decrease a little, but the rock becomes more brittle and is no longer as compact. Climbing continues directly along the edge of the ridge to where the via ferrata ends with the crossing of a plate in a scree deposit.  From the exit along the signed dots to the hiking trail and then on this left to the summit. At the summit you are rewarded with the Europe cross. - 2.5 hrs.

From the summit descend westwards for a short moment and then on the ramp (A to B) steeply to the foot of the rock face. From there continue eastwards on the hiking trail to the hut Filmoor-Standschützenhütte. - 0.5 hrs.

The path then takes us again along the Carnic high route 403. It first descends to Oberer Stuckensee before climbing up to Heretriegel 2170m. Continuing to follow the Carnic high route you walk northward beneath the mountain trail Porze north face to Porzehütte (1942m). Alternatively you can also descend on path 16a from Heretriegel and via the forestry path to Porzehütte. The path is easier but also a little longer and has additional meters  elevation gain. -3 hrs. Total 8 hrs.

Note


all notes on protected areas

Coordinates

DD
DMS
UTM
w3w 
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendation by the author

Author’s map recommendations

Tabacco 017

Book recommendations for this region:

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Recommended maps for this region:

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Equipment

Certified via ferrata set an helmet, alpine boots and gloves (for via ferratas).

Questions and answers

Question from Herbert Jakob · June 09, 2021 · Community
Kann bei der Etappe von der Obstanserseehütte zur Neuen Porzehütte der Kinigat-Klettersteig vermieden/umgangen werden? Für eine kurze Rückantwort bin ich sehr dankbar. Mit den besten Wünschen, Ihr Herbert Jakob
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Answered by Andreas Griebaum  · July 06, 2021 · alpenvereinaktiv.com
Hallo Herbert Jakob, sorry, wir haben die Frage nicht gesehen, aber ja er kann umgangen werden. Besten Gruß Harald

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Difficulty
D difficult
Distance
12.6 km
Duration
8:00 h
Ascent
1,200 m
Descent
1,600 m
Multi-stage route Scenic Refreshment stops available classic via ferrata Linear route sport via ferrata

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