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Fixed rope route

Via Ferrata Ermini Arosio

Fixed rope route · Adamello-Presanella Alps
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  • Klettersteig: Via Ferrata Ermini Arosio
    / Klettersteig: Via Ferrata Ermini Arosio
    Video: Outdooractive Editors
  • / Startpunkt an der Straße des Val di Saviore
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Ein schöner Pfad führt uns nach oben.
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Die Materialseilbahn am Rifugio Città di Lissone
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Rifugio Citta di Lissone
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Ein schöner Fluss führt durch die Hochebene.
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Der Grat zum Corno di Grevo
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Wir folgen der Markierung zum Klettersteig.
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Die letzten Meter vor dem Einstieg
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Der Einstieg ist deutlich markiert.
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Kriegsstellung am Einstieg in die Via Ferrata Ermini Arosio
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Kletterei auf der Via Ferrata Ermini Arosio
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Kletterei auf der Via Ferrata Ermini Arosio
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Kletterei auf der Via Ferrata Ermini Arosio
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Eindrucksvolle Tief- und Weitblicke am Klettersteig
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Das kleine Gipfelkreuz am Corno di Grevo
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Aussicht vom Gipfel
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Kletterei auf der Via Ferrata Ermini Arosio
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Am Passo di Forcel Rosso
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Über ein grobes Schotterfeld führt der Weg nach unten.
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Auf dem Rückweg
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Rifugio Citta di Lissone
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
  • / Die Terrasse des Rifugio Citta di Lissone
    Photo: Hartmut Wimmer, Outdooractive Editors
m 3000 2500 2000 1500 8 6 4 2 km Corno di Grevo Via Ferrata Ermini Arosio Rifugio Citta di Lissone Rifugio Citta di Lissone
Demanding via ferrata over granite rocks in the secluded Val di Saviore
difficult
9.3 km
11:00 h
1320 m
1320 m
On the western edge of the Brenta Dolomites and in the east of Lombardy is the 2867 m high peak of Corno di Grevo. A wonderful via ferrata, away from the usual via ferrata areas, leads to the impressive summit. The via ferrata can be reached via the lonely Val di Saviore and is only suitable for experienced via ferrata climbers. Over a jagged granite ridge we usually climb the summit with friction climbing. From here we have a great view of the surrounding mountains, including the 3539 m high Adamello peak. On the descent we pass some old war positions and at the end it is worth stopping at the Rifugio Citta di Lissone.

Author’s recommendation

In the upper valley floor there are beautiful picnic areas on the mountain meadows right by the river.
Profile picture of Hartmut Wimmer
Author
Hartmut Wimmer 
Updated: October 28, 2020
Difficulty
D difficult
Technique
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Highest point
2869 m
Lowest point
1590 m
Best time of year
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
Exposition / cardinal direction
NESW
Access
781 m, 2:00 h
Climbing length
550 m, 3:00 h
Descent
1270 m, 2:00 h

Rest Stop

Rifugio Citta di Lissone

Safety information

There are no exit options on the via ferrata.

Start

Parking at the Malga Lincino (1590 m)
Coordinates:
DD
46.083650, 10.486950
DMS
46°05'01.1"N 10°29'13.0"E
UTM
32T 614963 5104416
w3w 
///defaults.disturbed.enterprises

Destination

Parking at the Malga Lincino

Turn-by-turn directions

Our tour starts at the Malga Lincino. From here we follow the stepped path number 15 over steep serpentines upwards. After around 45 minutes we reach the Rifugio Citta di Lissone. Now we follow path number 24 towards Passo Forcel Rosso. The path is initially quite flat along a river, but after about five minutes we reach a sign where we keep left towards Via Ferrata Ermini Arosio. We follow the steep serpentines upwards until a small sign at an altitude of 2300 m shows us to the left to a notch. The entrance to the via ferrata is marked with a board. From here we can also see almost the entire course of the ridge and thus also the course of the via ferrata. From the start we follow the path over rough granite rock over the ridge with difficulty level C / D. The first section ends in a notch where we cross a very narrow crevice and then have to overcome an exposed crossing (C / D). After this exposed spot, it's a little less exposed, but not necessarily easier. We soon reach the pre-summit at 2380 m over a steep slab of difficulty D. Here we have the option of following the insured climb to the descent path or the unsecured ridge (1+) to the summit of Corno di Grevo.

The descent is via the pre-summit. Here we follow the initially still insured path (B) down. Later, the trail turns into an easy climb (1-2). We follow a steep gravel channel down and pass a position from the First World War. We descend over difficult, blocked walking terrain in a south-easterly direction to Passo Forcel Rosso. Here we follow path number 24 downhill. Soon we will find our ascent route again and follow it back to the parking lot.

Note


all notes on protected areas

Getting there

From Cedegole we follow the road eastwards into Val di Saviore. We cross the village of Valle and follow the steep, narrow road into Val di Saviore. The Magla Licino is the starting point of our tour.

Parking

Roadside parking

Coordinates

DD
46.083650, 10.486950
DMS
46°05'01.1"N 10°29'13.0"E
UTM
32T 614963 5104416
w3w 
///defaults.disturbed.enterprises
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

Book recommendations for this region:

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Equipment

Via ferrata set, climbing harness, helmet, gloves, non-slip mountaineering boots, possibly a torch for studs, daypack with sufficient provisions

Questions & Answers

Question about Börni Biwak · June 17, 2020 · Community
Ihr weist ja ausdrücklich auf das Schutzgebiet hin. Allerdings sind in Schutzgebieten in Italien wie auch in BRD keine Drohnen-Flüge erlaubt. Ist natürlich nicht nur rechtlich problematisch, zumal so eine Webseite ja Vorbildfunktion haben sollte.
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Difficulty
D difficult
Distance
9.3 km
Duration
11:00h
Ascent
1320 m
Descent
1320 m
Loop Scenic Refreshment stops available Cultural/historical value Insider tip Summit route

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